cbsh
2007-08-07, 12:08
如何更换摩托车刹车油以及保养。[英汉转载]
以下文字内容叙述比较完整，但是比较繁琐，下篇我们将自己编写简化说明。
<div>
<div>
<h3>Disc Brake Tech</h3>
<h4></h4>
<div>story by Michael Kresnicka, Created Monday, Oct 30, 2000</div>
</div>
<!-- end intro -->
<div></div>
</div>
<!-- end promo area -->
<!-- page content -->
<div> <br />
<!-- OAS_AD('TopRight'); //-->
<span id="vsCaption"><strong>How-To Revitalize and Maintain Your Disc brakes </strong>
<p>Most of us can't afford to run out and buy a new bike every time something goes wrong or needs adjusting. So as consumers, we are familiar with the ever-so-painful and expensive trip to the local dealership or mechanic. </p>
<p>You may have pondered the idea of performing simple maintenance tasks on your own, but may be overwhelmed with questions and the possibility of making things worse than they already are. Well fear no more because when it comes to disc brakes, they're all pretty much the same and reasonably easy to tackle by the average do-it-yourselfer. However, you must use a great deal of caution when dealing with brakes because of how important they are to safety. If you don't feel comfortable working on your brakes by yourself, then by all means have someone with more knowledge and experience help you. </p>
<p>Whether you ride a sportbike or a modern cruiser, the elements in the braking </p>
<div><img title="" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/header.jpg" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="300" /> </div>
system are pretty much the same. They all take advantage of a fluid element that is pressurized to provide the required forces (better known as hydraulics) to squeeze the brake pad material onto the rotor. As easy as this sounds, there are a few key tricks to making sure that your brakes are up to spec.
</p>
<p>First and foremost is making sure there is no air in the hydraulic system. Air is your enemy and can get you into serious trouble if the necessary precautions are not taken. The second most important aspect of your motorcycle's braking system is the amount of friction material on your brake pads. As you use your brakes, the material is slowly burned away in order to provide enough friction to stop your motorcycle. The third most important aspect is the condition of your brake fluid. Brake systems are not set-and-forget items on your bike. As the fluid gets old, it starts to degrade and absorb moisture, reducing its ability to perform its job. </p>
<p>When it comes to disc brakes, they're all pretty much the same and reasonably easy to tackle by the average do-it-yourselfer. </p>
<p>Replacing stock or worn brake pads is the quickest way to get increased braking power out of a tired system. Various manufacturers make all kinds of different types of replacement brake pads for today's motorcycles. Some claim to last longer, while others claim to give more feel and braking power. However, be forewarned that the manufacturer of your motorcycle put a lot of time and effort into developing your braking system, and there is no telling what a different type of pad material might do to your rotors or how well different pads will work with the overall design and setup of your bike. If you have any doubts, then stick with genuine factory parts. </p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="EBC 'Double-H' Brake Pads" alt="EBC 'Double-H' Brake Pads" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/ebc-2.jpg" align="" border="0" height="100" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="216" />
<p>EBC "Double-H" Brake Pads </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>
<div><img title="EBC's Standard 'Black' Kevlar Pads" alt="EBC's Standard 'Black' Kevlar Pads" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/ebc-1.jpg" align="" border="0" height="100" hspace="0" vspace="0" />
<p>EBC's Standard "Black" Kevlar Pads </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>I chose to forego my own advice and try a set of EBC "Double-H" Sintered Brake Pads on the front brakes, which claim to be nice on your rotors and still provide massive stopping power over the stock setup. However, on the rear brakes I choose not to upgrade to a better pad material simply due to the fact that the rear brakes are way more sensitive to locking up the the fronts, and replacing your stock rear pads with an upgraded type can provide too much initial bite and get you into some serious trouble. So, I chose to stick with EBC's "Standard Black Kevlar Pads" in the rear.
</p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Front Caliper Mounting Location" alt="Front Caliper Mounting Location" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/front-caliper.jpg" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="150" />
<p>Front Caliper Mounting Location </p>
</div>
Removing the calipers from the rotors is the first step in checking your brake pads. In dealing with your front disc brakes, first remove the <strong></strong>two main bolts that attach the calipers to the forks. Notice the bike I am working on has floating calipers and floating discs. The floating disc allows the inner portion of the disc mounting system to be made from a lighter, weaker material and hence decrease the rotating mass of the wheel and adding to the overall lightness of the motorcycle. The floating calipers pivot back and forth as pressure is applied to distribute the forces evenly over the two pad materials and keep the pads in full contact with the rotor during the entire braking process. Once the calipers are free you can slide them off of the brake discs and inspect the amount of pad material and look for anything out of the ordinary. If there is less than 1/8 inches of pad thickness left then they should be replaced.
</p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Internals of Front Caliper" alt="Internals of Front Caliper" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/front-caliper-2.jpg" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="150" />
<p>Internals of Front Caliper </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>Once the calipers are free from their mounting locations, it is time to disassemble them and remove the brake pads. On this particular setup there is one threaded metal pin that holds one side of the pads in place. The other side of the pad rests in the casting of the brake caliper. Removing this pin will free the pads and they should just fall right out. Notice the metal clips inside the caliper just beneath where the pads sit. These metal clips provide pressure on the pads to keep them from moving around inside the caliper. It is a good idea when you are working on your brakes to replace these clips. It would be foolish if you spent all this time and effort to have something so simple and cheap screw things up.
</p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Rear Caliper Mounting Location" alt="Rear Caliper Mounting Location" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/rear-caliper.jpg" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="175" />
<p>Rear Caliper Mounting Location </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>The rear brake assembly is similar to the front brake assembly. However, on this particular bike the rear disc is solidly mounted to the wheel and isn't of the "floating" type as the front discs. The caliper, on the other hand, is of the floating type. Removal of the rear caliper required me to remove my slip-on muffler and unscrew the two mounting bolts holding the caliper to its mounting bracket, located over the swing arm. Notice that the caliper-mounting bracket has room to slide back and forth as you tighten or loosen the amount of slack in your chain. This provides the entire brake mechanism to slide with the rear wheel in order for the pads to stay in full contact with the rotor when the chain is adjusted.
</p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Internals of Rear Caliper" alt="Internals of Rear Caliper" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/rear-caliper-2.jpg" align="" border="0" height="175" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="175" />
<p>Internals of Rear Caliper </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>Once the two mounting bolts have been removed, the caliper should easily slide off the rotor. Inspection of the pads is the same as the fronts. Notice that this caliper has only one piston forcing the pads together as opposed to the two pistons on the front calipers. The rear pads are smaller because less braking power is required. The rear pads are held in place by one bolt on one side of the caliper and are held at the other end inside the casting of the mounting bracket that the caliper is bolted to. Be very careful to make sure the new pads are firmly mounted in the caliper and are held securely at both mounting locations. If there is any doubt, check them again! Otherwise, they could fall out while you are cruising down the side of your favorite canyon road and ruin a perfect day, causing you to crash into the guard rail and go flying off the side of a cliff. Not a pretty site.
</p>
<p>Once the new pads have been assembled into the calipers and everything is torqued to spec, it is time to bleed the lines. In order for the hydraulic brake system to function properly the entire system must be fully pressurized without any air or moisture. If air and/or moisture are present in the system, it can cause a "soft" or "spongy" feel to the pedal when applied. Air can really mess things up, as it is compressible and can allow excessive pedal travel and loss of braking pressure. Moisture in the fluid will boil causing the same conditions and will also contribute to corrosion of internal brake components. </p>
<p>There are several different techniques to bleeding brake lines. Some of the more popular ideas are outlined below. </p>
<p>The Old Fashioned WayThis method of bleeding your brake system can work if you absolutely don't want to spend any money to make things easier on yourself. The basic idea is to have two people, one puts a light amount of pressure on the brake lever to introduce pressure into the system while the other opens the bleeder screw on the caliper and closes it after a couple seconds, thus purging the system of a little bit of fluid and air. As easy as it sounds, it is very difficult and time consuming to completely flush out all of the old fluid and the air bubbles from the system without getting out of sync with your partner and sucking more air into the system. </p>
<p>The Easy WayFor not a lot of money one can purchase a couple simple devices that will ease the painful process of brake bleeding. The first (and cheapest) is a simple little spring operated valve mechanism that attaches to a plastic hose from the bleeder screw on your calipers. This valve acts as a one-way bleeder that lets fluid and air out and closes before outside air can be sucked back into the line. </p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Hand Operated Vaccuum Brake Bleeder" alt="Hand Operated Vaccuum Brake Bleeder" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/mityvac.jpg" align="" border="0" height="107" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="117" />
<p>Hand Operated Vaccuum Brake Bleeder </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>The second method is a vacuum bleeder that also attaches to the bleeder screw on your caliper. However, this has a hand operated pump that sucks fluid through the system, making the entire process of changing fluid extremely easy and assuring that very little air is left in the system. The vacuum bleeder costs anywhere between $28 and $100, depending on how nice of a vacuum bleeder you want.
</p>
<p>Since I like to be as efficient as possible, I opted for the vacuum bleeder method. I purchased the MityVAC Vacuum Brake Bleeder for $28 from my local automotive parts store. It essentially is a hand-operated pump with a small reservoir attached to collect the old fluid. There are more expensive and sturdier units available. But I don't intend to use this often (maybe a couple times a year), so I figured the cheap one would do fine. </p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Motul Racing Fluid" alt="Motul Racing Fluid" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/motul.gif" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="100" />
<p>Motul Racing Fluid </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>Once you have selected a method that works for you, it's time to go buy the best brake fluid that you can afford. There is no sense in spending all that time and money only to use a bargain brand of brake fluid. There are many good brands of brake fluid. I opted for a bottle of MOTUL "Racing Brake Fluid 600" for $12.00 from my local motorcycle dealer. This is often regarded as the best brake fluid for any application. It is a DOT 3,4, & 5.1 compatible synthetic fluid that has an incredibly high boiling point and excellent thermal stability. Any brake fluid is extremely poisonous and corrosive and will suck the moisture out of your skin, so wear some rubber gloves when working with the stuff. It will also eat right through the paint on your motorcycle, so be careful and use towels around the master cylinder reservoirs. With moisture in mind, you want to minimize the amount of time that the fluid is exposed to air to prevent it from absorbing any moisture that will lead to poor brake performance. My advice is not to open the seal on the bottle until you are ready to use it and keep it closed immediately after you are done with it. I used a turkey baster in order to suck all the old fluid out of the front and rear master cylinders. If you don't own one, then go to your local grocery store and buy one. My intent was to completely flush the old fluid out of the system and replace it with the new stuff. I used a turkey baster in order to suck all the old fluid out of the front and rear master cylinders. If you don't own one, then go to your local grocery store and buy one. It sounds stupid, but they work great.
</p>
<p>Once you have sucked out all the old fluid, pour your new fluid into the master cylinder and begin to bleed the system. If you choose to use a vacuum brake bleeder as I did, keep in mind to read all of the instructions carefully. I had very little trouble using my vacuum bleeder, in fact the entire process took less than 15 minutes to finish. Life is so much easier when you have the proper tools. </p>
<p>Keep in mind to watch the level of fluid in the master cylinder as to not let it get too low and suck air into the system. It sounds simple enough, but I have seen people have to start completely over because they were in a hurry and didn't remember to refill the reservoir. </p>
<p>There should be a distinct difference in color between the old fluid and the new fluid. Once, you see only fresh fluid emerging from the bleeder screw the system has been completely flushed. As far as getting all of the air bubbles out, gently tap on all of the fittings in your brake lines to free all of the air bubbles that might have gotten stuck there. Then make sure that the master cylinder reservoir is topped off with enough fluid, install the caps, replace the rubber covers over the bleeder screws, and you are finished. </p>
<p>Double check to make sure that the pads are securely held in place and the calipers have been torqued correctly to their mounting locations. </p>
<p>Now, before you run out and test your brakes on the road it is a good idea to pump the brake levers to make sure that there is sufficient pressure in the system. Also, roll the motorcycle slowly and test the front and rear brakes before you hit the road. Double check to make sure that the pads are securely held in place and the calipers have been torqued correctly to there mounting locations. </p>
<p>New pads usually require a certain amount of break-in for them to function correctly. Check with the pad manufacturer for proper break-in times and procedures. If you upgraded pad materials from your previous type, keep in mind that there is probably going to be a noticeable improvement in stopping power and initial bite. Take time to get used to your new setup so you don't hurt yourself or your precious motorcycle</p>
</span></div>
盘式刹车的养护与技巧
对于大多数人来说，一般会购买二手车，这样的话就有许多东西需要调整或是调换。作为消费者，谁都会有在当地经销商和维修店挨宰的经历。你也许可以考虑自己来做这些简单的养护与维修，当然，你同时也会冒着把事情做的更糟的风险。
也许我们对刹车盘的处理有所顾虑，但是对于一般水平的人来说是不难的，对于手巧的人来说更是容易。尽管如此你在处理刹车时还是需要很多的提示，因为那是和安全联系很紧密的事。如果你有很多经验和知识，你就会很容易发现刹车系统的异常。
无论你骑的是什么车，跑车或是巡航，刹车系统是同样重要的。它主要是通过加压的液体提供必要的力量挤压刹车片使其紧紧的贴于刹车碟片上。正如所说的那样简单，这里有几个诀窍使你的刹车系统达到要求。
首先最重要的是确保你的刹车密闭系统中没有空气。它是你最大的敌人，会让你在紧急时刻使你陷入困境。
其次一个因素是刹车片的摩擦力，在你刹车的时候刹车片是渐渐消损的，是它提供了足够的摩擦力使你的车停下。
再次是你刹车油的状况。刹车系统可不是一个你调好就不用管的系统，当刹车油老化时，就开始降解和吸收潮气，工作就不灵敏了。更换刹车盘和刹车片是最有效 的快速的提高老系统刹车力的方法。现在许多厂商为摩托车制造了好多种类的刹车片，有的是强调耐久性，有的着重于强力的制动。不过要先告知你，摩托车厂商是 花了许多时间来改进车子的刹车系统，但是他们并没有说明什么型号刹车片用于什么车更合适，而且这些刹车片也不是为一种车型专门设计的。如果你有什么疑虑， 那就和原厂件分手吧。
我给了自己一个忠告，试着选用了EBC"Double-H"烧结工艺的前刹车片，供货商声称它可以提供很强的制动力，也很适合你的前刹车。尽管如此，我 还是没有给后刹车换上高级的刹车片，因为后刹车比前刹车容易抱死，换上高级的刹车片不利于你的刹车盘前期磨合，也很容易使你在紧急刹车时惹祸！于是我选择 了EBC''s "Standard（标准）Black Kevlar Pads"装在后盘上。从盘上拆下卡钳是你检查刹车片的第一步。在拆卸前刹车时，首先你要把连接卡钳和前叉子的螺栓卸下。我用的车子是有浮动卡钳和浮动刹 车盘的，浮动刹车盘是盘的轴心部由相对柔软和轻巧的金属做的，有内外两圈。这样可以减少轮子的转动惯量，并使车子的重量减轻，制动力不是特别生硬，相对柔 和。浮动卡钳是对向伸缩的，这样可以在整个刹车过程使刹车片均匀贴附于盘上，使力量分布均匀，从而提供良好的制动效果。浮动卡钳可以在盘上左右移动，这样 你就可以观察刹车片的厚度，如果它只剩下不到1/8英寸，那就要更换了。卸下卡钳后，就要拆下刹车片了，在刹车片的一头有一个小卡丝，卸下它就可以顺利的 拆下刹车片了。小卡丝就在固定刹车片的金属柱根部。这是你更换刹车片的好时机！后刹车和前部的构造是相似的，但是这部车的后刹车是固定的，与前面不同不是 浮动的。要拆卸它还要把消声器和两个螺栓拿下，后刹车泵体就在后摇臂上。泵体的支架也是有活动余量的，因为在你调校链条时，也须把刹车泵向后拉，只有这样 才能使刹车泵中的活塞对着盘的正确位置。把按在后面的销子取掉，刹车片很容易就取下来了。刹车片的样子是与前面的大同小异，可以注意到这个卡钳是单向的。 后刹车片相对较小，是因为在你刹车时前叉子缩回，车子的重心有7成在前轮，后轮的正压力较小，所以在等同的制动力下后轮先抱死，后轮抱死是很危险的，为了 避免后轮抱死，后刹车片相对较小。一定要仔细的检查刹车片是否正确的安装，如果不确定，重来！一定要经常检查他们，否则它会毁了你美好的驾驶乐趣。一切都 安装妥当后，是给刹车线放血的时候了。为了使液压刹车系统工作正常，在密封的管路里是不能有水和空气的，如果水或是空气进入，那你的刹车感觉是软而无力 的。有了空气是最糟糕的，它是可以压缩的，这不仅会使你的刹车行程过长，还会失去很多压力。潮气和空气进入的情况是相同，水分蒸发后的水蒸气不仅会有空气 的作用，还会腐蚀系统中的器件。
下面列了好几种给刹车管放油的方法，有好几种是非常流行的。
如果你不想花很多的精力和金钱的话，你就用传统的方法吧，两个人操作，一个人轻轻按动刹车柄使刹车油加压，另一个人拧开卡钳上的放油螺丝，几秒后关上， 让一些空气和油流出。并不象说的那样简单，如果时间控制不好，不仅不能放出空气和老化的油，还可能吸入更多的空气。简单而经济的方法需要一些东西，这可以 使一个人完成这费劲的事。
或者你需要一个真空吸油器和连接放油螺丝的塑料软管，这管子（上面有夹子）是为了让旧的油流出后空气还没吸入前关闭系统用的。打开真空泵油就从管子里流 出来，这种方法可以确保所有的旧油都流出来，系统中没有空气。在任何地方，视你需要的性能，它的价钱在28 作，我还是希望用真空抽油机。我花28 当然是要贵一些了，不过我并不是常用它（一年也就一两次），所以就用个次一点的吧。如果你选择了精心的照料你的刹车，就不要再花费那么多精力去换上什么便 宜的刹车油了。这里会有很多很好的品牌供你选择，我购买了一种叫MOTUL "Racing Brake Fluid 600"的刹车油，12,和DOT5.1的三种型号，具有令人不可思议的沸点和热稳定性。任 何一种刹车油都是有毒的，有很强的腐蚀性，它可以将水份从我们的皮肤中吸出来，所以在接触刹车油时有必要带橡胶手套，它同时也是油漆的天敌，溅到漆上的要 及时擦去！如果你有了吸湿的观念，就尽可能的减少刹车油暴露在空气中的时间，这样可以减少油中的水气含量防止刹车的不良表现。我的忠告是：不要在使用前打 开瓶子的封口，用完后尽快盖严。我永远是完全更换所有的旧油，坚决彻底的！我总是用一根没用的管子来吸油，就是为了让所有的旧油都流出，把前后卡钳里的油 放净。你要是没有的话就到日杂店里买吧，听起来很滑稽，可是很管事！吸完油后，把新的刹车油倒进手柄上的油盒里。如果你用的是真空泵，那就要按照我的方法 去做！我在使用真空泵时遇到了一些小麻烦，事实上整个过程只要15分钟就可以搞定了。注意，要仔细观察油盒上的油面标记，不要太低，防止把空气吸入油管 里。这个听起来简单，可是我总是可以看见有的人忘了灌满油盒，使空气又进入了油管，只好从头再来！新的刹车油和老的颜色截然不同，只要你看见有新的油从你 接的橡胶管（接在放油螺丝上）里流出，就说明油彻底换完了。轻轻敲击刹车管，使附着的气泡都跑出来。确定油盒已经灌满了，按上盖子，更换放油螺丝上的橡胶 帽，就完事了！
在你上路试车的之前，最好先捏几下刹车，看看是否有足够的压力。接着慢慢的行驶，测试前后刹车。更保险的是检查刹车片和刹车盘是否位置正确，运转正常。 新的刹车片需要几次磨合使它正常工作，查看出产商的说明，按要求跑合。如果你换了更好的刹车片或是刹车盘，一定要记住！这很可能增强你的刹车力和刹车效 果！不是一定！你要用一些时间去适应新的刹车系统，这样不会伤着你自己，还有你心爱的车子！
以下文字内容叙述比较完整，但是比较繁琐，下篇我们将自己编写简化说明。
<div>
<div>
<h3>Disc Brake Tech</h3>
<h4></h4>
<div>story by Michael Kresnicka, Created Monday, Oct 30, 2000</div>
</div>
<!-- end intro -->
<div></div>
</div>
<!-- end promo area -->
<!-- page content -->
<div> <br />
<!-- OAS_AD('TopRight'); //-->
<span id="vsCaption"><strong>How-To Revitalize and Maintain Your Disc brakes </strong>
<p>Most of us can't afford to run out and buy a new bike every time something goes wrong or needs adjusting. So as consumers, we are familiar with the ever-so-painful and expensive trip to the local dealership or mechanic. </p>
<p>You may have pondered the idea of performing simple maintenance tasks on your own, but may be overwhelmed with questions and the possibility of making things worse than they already are. Well fear no more because when it comes to disc brakes, they're all pretty much the same and reasonably easy to tackle by the average do-it-yourselfer. However, you must use a great deal of caution when dealing with brakes because of how important they are to safety. If you don't feel comfortable working on your brakes by yourself, then by all means have someone with more knowledge and experience help you. </p>
<p>Whether you ride a sportbike or a modern cruiser, the elements in the braking </p>
<div><img title="" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/header.jpg" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="300" /> </div>
system are pretty much the same. They all take advantage of a fluid element that is pressurized to provide the required forces (better known as hydraulics) to squeeze the brake pad material onto the rotor. As easy as this sounds, there are a few key tricks to making sure that your brakes are up to spec.
</p>
<p>First and foremost is making sure there is no air in the hydraulic system. Air is your enemy and can get you into serious trouble if the necessary precautions are not taken. The second most important aspect of your motorcycle's braking system is the amount of friction material on your brake pads. As you use your brakes, the material is slowly burned away in order to provide enough friction to stop your motorcycle. The third most important aspect is the condition of your brake fluid. Brake systems are not set-and-forget items on your bike. As the fluid gets old, it starts to degrade and absorb moisture, reducing its ability to perform its job. </p>
<p>When it comes to disc brakes, they're all pretty much the same and reasonably easy to tackle by the average do-it-yourselfer. </p>
<p>Replacing stock or worn brake pads is the quickest way to get increased braking power out of a tired system. Various manufacturers make all kinds of different types of replacement brake pads for today's motorcycles. Some claim to last longer, while others claim to give more feel and braking power. However, be forewarned that the manufacturer of your motorcycle put a lot of time and effort into developing your braking system, and there is no telling what a different type of pad material might do to your rotors or how well different pads will work with the overall design and setup of your bike. If you have any doubts, then stick with genuine factory parts. </p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="EBC 'Double-H' Brake Pads" alt="EBC 'Double-H' Brake Pads" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/ebc-2.jpg" align="" border="0" height="100" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="216" />
<p>EBC "Double-H" Brake Pads </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>
<div><img title="EBC's Standard 'Black' Kevlar Pads" alt="EBC's Standard 'Black' Kevlar Pads" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/ebc-1.jpg" align="" border="0" height="100" hspace="0" vspace="0" />
<p>EBC's Standard "Black" Kevlar Pads </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>I chose to forego my own advice and try a set of EBC "Double-H" Sintered Brake Pads on the front brakes, which claim to be nice on your rotors and still provide massive stopping power over the stock setup. However, on the rear brakes I choose not to upgrade to a better pad material simply due to the fact that the rear brakes are way more sensitive to locking up the the fronts, and replacing your stock rear pads with an upgraded type can provide too much initial bite and get you into some serious trouble. So, I chose to stick with EBC's "Standard Black Kevlar Pads" in the rear.
</p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Front Caliper Mounting Location" alt="Front Caliper Mounting Location" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/front-caliper.jpg" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="150" />
<p>Front Caliper Mounting Location </p>
</div>
Removing the calipers from the rotors is the first step in checking your brake pads. In dealing with your front disc brakes, first remove the <strong></strong>two main bolts that attach the calipers to the forks. Notice the bike I am working on has floating calipers and floating discs. The floating disc allows the inner portion of the disc mounting system to be made from a lighter, weaker material and hence decrease the rotating mass of the wheel and adding to the overall lightness of the motorcycle. The floating calipers pivot back and forth as pressure is applied to distribute the forces evenly over the two pad materials and keep the pads in full contact with the rotor during the entire braking process. Once the calipers are free you can slide them off of the brake discs and inspect the amount of pad material and look for anything out of the ordinary. If there is less than 1/8 inches of pad thickness left then they should be replaced.
</p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Internals of Front Caliper" alt="Internals of Front Caliper" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/front-caliper-2.jpg" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="150" />
<p>Internals of Front Caliper </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>Once the calipers are free from their mounting locations, it is time to disassemble them and remove the brake pads. On this particular setup there is one threaded metal pin that holds one side of the pads in place. The other side of the pad rests in the casting of the brake caliper. Removing this pin will free the pads and they should just fall right out. Notice the metal clips inside the caliper just beneath where the pads sit. These metal clips provide pressure on the pads to keep them from moving around inside the caliper. It is a good idea when you are working on your brakes to replace these clips. It would be foolish if you spent all this time and effort to have something so simple and cheap screw things up.
</p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Rear Caliper Mounting Location" alt="Rear Caliper Mounting Location" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/rear-caliper.jpg" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="175" />
<p>Rear Caliper Mounting Location </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>The rear brake assembly is similar to the front brake assembly. However, on this particular bike the rear disc is solidly mounted to the wheel and isn't of the "floating" type as the front discs. The caliper, on the other hand, is of the floating type. Removal of the rear caliper required me to remove my slip-on muffler and unscrew the two mounting bolts holding the caliper to its mounting bracket, located over the swing arm. Notice that the caliper-mounting bracket has room to slide back and forth as you tighten or loosen the amount of slack in your chain. This provides the entire brake mechanism to slide with the rear wheel in order for the pads to stay in full contact with the rotor when the chain is adjusted.
</p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Internals of Rear Caliper" alt="Internals of Rear Caliper" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/rear-caliper-2.jpg" align="" border="0" height="175" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="175" />
<p>Internals of Rear Caliper </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>Once the two mounting bolts have been removed, the caliper should easily slide off the rotor. Inspection of the pads is the same as the fronts. Notice that this caliper has only one piston forcing the pads together as opposed to the two pistons on the front calipers. The rear pads are smaller because less braking power is required. The rear pads are held in place by one bolt on one side of the caliper and are held at the other end inside the casting of the mounting bracket that the caliper is bolted to. Be very careful to make sure the new pads are firmly mounted in the caliper and are held securely at both mounting locations. If there is any doubt, check them again! Otherwise, they could fall out while you are cruising down the side of your favorite canyon road and ruin a perfect day, causing you to crash into the guard rail and go flying off the side of a cliff. Not a pretty site.
</p>
<p>Once the new pads have been assembled into the calipers and everything is torqued to spec, it is time to bleed the lines. In order for the hydraulic brake system to function properly the entire system must be fully pressurized without any air or moisture. If air and/or moisture are present in the system, it can cause a "soft" or "spongy" feel to the pedal when applied. Air can really mess things up, as it is compressible and can allow excessive pedal travel and loss of braking pressure. Moisture in the fluid will boil causing the same conditions and will also contribute to corrosion of internal brake components. </p>
<p>There are several different techniques to bleeding brake lines. Some of the more popular ideas are outlined below. </p>
<p>The Old Fashioned WayThis method of bleeding your brake system can work if you absolutely don't want to spend any money to make things easier on yourself. The basic idea is to have two people, one puts a light amount of pressure on the brake lever to introduce pressure into the system while the other opens the bleeder screw on the caliper and closes it after a couple seconds, thus purging the system of a little bit of fluid and air. As easy as it sounds, it is very difficult and time consuming to completely flush out all of the old fluid and the air bubbles from the system without getting out of sync with your partner and sucking more air into the system. </p>
<p>The Easy WayFor not a lot of money one can purchase a couple simple devices that will ease the painful process of brake bleeding. The first (and cheapest) is a simple little spring operated valve mechanism that attaches to a plastic hose from the bleeder screw on your calipers. This valve acts as a one-way bleeder that lets fluid and air out and closes before outside air can be sucked back into the line. </p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Hand Operated Vaccuum Brake Bleeder" alt="Hand Operated Vaccuum Brake Bleeder" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/mityvac.jpg" align="" border="0" height="107" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="117" />
<p>Hand Operated Vaccuum Brake Bleeder </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>The second method is a vacuum bleeder that also attaches to the bleeder screw on your caliper. However, this has a hand operated pump that sucks fluid through the system, making the entire process of changing fluid extremely easy and assuring that very little air is left in the system. The vacuum bleeder costs anywhere between $28 and $100, depending on how nice of a vacuum bleeder you want.
</p>
<p>Since I like to be as efficient as possible, I opted for the vacuum bleeder method. I purchased the MityVAC Vacuum Brake Bleeder for $28 from my local automotive parts store. It essentially is a hand-operated pump with a small reservoir attached to collect the old fluid. There are more expensive and sturdier units available. But I don't intend to use this often (maybe a couple times a year), so I figured the cheap one would do fine. </p>
<p></p>
<div><img title="Motul Racing Fluid" alt="Motul Racing Fluid" src="http://www.motorcycle.com/images/content/Event/motul.gif" align="" border="0" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="100" />
<p>Motul Racing Fluid </p>
</div>
<strong></strong>Once you have selected a method that works for you, it's time to go buy the best brake fluid that you can afford. There is no sense in spending all that time and money only to use a bargain brand of brake fluid. There are many good brands of brake fluid. I opted for a bottle of MOTUL "Racing Brake Fluid 600" for $12.00 from my local motorcycle dealer. This is often regarded as the best brake fluid for any application. It is a DOT 3,4, & 5.1 compatible synthetic fluid that has an incredibly high boiling point and excellent thermal stability. Any brake fluid is extremely poisonous and corrosive and will suck the moisture out of your skin, so wear some rubber gloves when working with the stuff. It will also eat right through the paint on your motorcycle, so be careful and use towels around the master cylinder reservoirs. With moisture in mind, you want to minimize the amount of time that the fluid is exposed to air to prevent it from absorbing any moisture that will lead to poor brake performance. My advice is not to open the seal on the bottle until you are ready to use it and keep it closed immediately after you are done with it. I used a turkey baster in order to suck all the old fluid out of the front and rear master cylinders. If you don't own one, then go to your local grocery store and buy one. My intent was to completely flush the old fluid out of the system and replace it with the new stuff. I used a turkey baster in order to suck all the old fluid out of the front and rear master cylinders. If you don't own one, then go to your local grocery store and buy one. It sounds stupid, but they work great.
</p>
<p>Once you have sucked out all the old fluid, pour your new fluid into the master cylinder and begin to bleed the system. If you choose to use a vacuum brake bleeder as I did, keep in mind to read all of the instructions carefully. I had very little trouble using my vacuum bleeder, in fact the entire process took less than 15 minutes to finish. Life is so much easier when you have the proper tools. </p>
<p>Keep in mind to watch the level of fluid in the master cylinder as to not let it get too low and suck air into the system. It sounds simple enough, but I have seen people have to start completely over because they were in a hurry and didn't remember to refill the reservoir. </p>
<p>There should be a distinct difference in color between the old fluid and the new fluid. Once, you see only fresh fluid emerging from the bleeder screw the system has been completely flushed. As far as getting all of the air bubbles out, gently tap on all of the fittings in your brake lines to free all of the air bubbles that might have gotten stuck there. Then make sure that the master cylinder reservoir is topped off with enough fluid, install the caps, replace the rubber covers over the bleeder screws, and you are finished. </p>
<p>Double check to make sure that the pads are securely held in place and the calipers have been torqued correctly to their mounting locations. </p>
<p>Now, before you run out and test your brakes on the road it is a good idea to pump the brake levers to make sure that there is sufficient pressure in the system. Also, roll the motorcycle slowly and test the front and rear brakes before you hit the road. Double check to make sure that the pads are securely held in place and the calipers have been torqued correctly to there mounting locations. </p>
<p>New pads usually require a certain amount of break-in for them to function correctly. Check with the pad manufacturer for proper break-in times and procedures. If you upgraded pad materials from your previous type, keep in mind that there is probably going to be a noticeable improvement in stopping power and initial bite. Take time to get used to your new setup so you don't hurt yourself or your precious motorcycle</p>
</span></div>
盘式刹车的养护与技巧
对于大多数人来说，一般会购买二手车，这样的话就有许多东西需要调整或是调换。作为消费者，谁都会有在当地经销商和维修店挨宰的经历。你也许可以考虑自己来做这些简单的养护与维修，当然，你同时也会冒着把事情做的更糟的风险。
也许我们对刹车盘的处理有所顾虑，但是对于一般水平的人来说是不难的，对于手巧的人来说更是容易。尽管如此你在处理刹车时还是需要很多的提示，因为那是和安全联系很紧密的事。如果你有很多经验和知识，你就会很容易发现刹车系统的异常。
无论你骑的是什么车，跑车或是巡航，刹车系统是同样重要的。它主要是通过加压的液体提供必要的力量挤压刹车片使其紧紧的贴于刹车碟片上。正如所说的那样简单，这里有几个诀窍使你的刹车系统达到要求。
首先最重要的是确保你的刹车密闭系统中没有空气。它是你最大的敌人，会让你在紧急时刻使你陷入困境。
其次一个因素是刹车片的摩擦力，在你刹车的时候刹车片是渐渐消损的，是它提供了足够的摩擦力使你的车停下。
再次是你刹车油的状况。刹车系统可不是一个你调好就不用管的系统，当刹车油老化时，就开始降解和吸收潮气，工作就不灵敏了。更换刹车盘和刹车片是最有效 的快速的提高老系统刹车力的方法。现在许多厂商为摩托车制造了好多种类的刹车片，有的是强调耐久性，有的着重于强力的制动。不过要先告知你，摩托车厂商是 花了许多时间来改进车子的刹车系统，但是他们并没有说明什么型号刹车片用于什么车更合适，而且这些刹车片也不是为一种车型专门设计的。如果你有什么疑虑， 那就和原厂件分手吧。
我给了自己一个忠告，试着选用了EBC"Double-H"烧结工艺的前刹车片，供货商声称它可以提供很强的制动力，也很适合你的前刹车。尽管如此，我 还是没有给后刹车换上高级的刹车片，因为后刹车比前刹车容易抱死，换上高级的刹车片不利于你的刹车盘前期磨合，也很容易使你在紧急刹车时惹祸！于是我选择 了EBC''s "Standard（标准）Black Kevlar Pads"装在后盘上。从盘上拆下卡钳是你检查刹车片的第一步。在拆卸前刹车时，首先你要把连接卡钳和前叉子的螺栓卸下。我用的车子是有浮动卡钳和浮动刹 车盘的，浮动刹车盘是盘的轴心部由相对柔软和轻巧的金属做的，有内外两圈。这样可以减少轮子的转动惯量，并使车子的重量减轻，制动力不是特别生硬，相对柔 和。浮动卡钳是对向伸缩的，这样可以在整个刹车过程使刹车片均匀贴附于盘上，使力量分布均匀，从而提供良好的制动效果。浮动卡钳可以在盘上左右移动，这样 你就可以观察刹车片的厚度，如果它只剩下不到1/8英寸，那就要更换了。卸下卡钳后，就要拆下刹车片了，在刹车片的一头有一个小卡丝，卸下它就可以顺利的 拆下刹车片了。小卡丝就在固定刹车片的金属柱根部。这是你更换刹车片的好时机！后刹车和前部的构造是相似的，但是这部车的后刹车是固定的，与前面不同不是 浮动的。要拆卸它还要把消声器和两个螺栓拿下，后刹车泵体就在后摇臂上。泵体的支架也是有活动余量的，因为在你调校链条时，也须把刹车泵向后拉，只有这样 才能使刹车泵中的活塞对着盘的正确位置。把按在后面的销子取掉，刹车片很容易就取下来了。刹车片的样子是与前面的大同小异，可以注意到这个卡钳是单向的。 后刹车片相对较小，是因为在你刹车时前叉子缩回，车子的重心有7成在前轮，后轮的正压力较小，所以在等同的制动力下后轮先抱死，后轮抱死是很危险的，为了 避免后轮抱死，后刹车片相对较小。一定要仔细的检查刹车片是否正确的安装，如果不确定，重来！一定要经常检查他们，否则它会毁了你美好的驾驶乐趣。一切都 安装妥当后，是给刹车线放血的时候了。为了使液压刹车系统工作正常，在密封的管路里是不能有水和空气的，如果水或是空气进入，那你的刹车感觉是软而无力 的。有了空气是最糟糕的，它是可以压缩的，这不仅会使你的刹车行程过长，还会失去很多压力。潮气和空气进入的情况是相同，水分蒸发后的水蒸气不仅会有空气 的作用，还会腐蚀系统中的器件。
下面列了好几种给刹车管放油的方法，有好几种是非常流行的。
如果你不想花很多的精力和金钱的话，你就用传统的方法吧，两个人操作，一个人轻轻按动刹车柄使刹车油加压，另一个人拧开卡钳上的放油螺丝，几秒后关上， 让一些空气和油流出。并不象说的那样简单，如果时间控制不好，不仅不能放出空气和老化的油，还可能吸入更多的空气。简单而经济的方法需要一些东西，这可以 使一个人完成这费劲的事。
或者你需要一个真空吸油器和连接放油螺丝的塑料软管，这管子（上面有夹子）是为了让旧的油流出后空气还没吸入前关闭系统用的。打开真空泵油就从管子里流 出来，这种方法可以确保所有的旧油都流出来，系统中没有空气。在任何地方，视你需要的性能，它的价钱在28 作，我还是希望用真空抽油机。我花28 当然是要贵一些了，不过我并不是常用它（一年也就一两次），所以就用个次一点的吧。如果你选择了精心的照料你的刹车，就不要再花费那么多精力去换上什么便 宜的刹车油了。这里会有很多很好的品牌供你选择，我购买了一种叫MOTUL "Racing Brake Fluid 600"的刹车油，12,和DOT5.1的三种型号，具有令人不可思议的沸点和热稳定性。任 何一种刹车油都是有毒的，有很强的腐蚀性，它可以将水份从我们的皮肤中吸出来，所以在接触刹车油时有必要带橡胶手套，它同时也是油漆的天敌，溅到漆上的要 及时擦去！如果你有了吸湿的观念，就尽可能的减少刹车油暴露在空气中的时间，这样可以减少油中的水气含量防止刹车的不良表现。我的忠告是：不要在使用前打 开瓶子的封口，用完后尽快盖严。我永远是完全更换所有的旧油，坚决彻底的！我总是用一根没用的管子来吸油，就是为了让所有的旧油都流出，把前后卡钳里的油 放净。你要是没有的话就到日杂店里买吧，听起来很滑稽，可是很管事！吸完油后，把新的刹车油倒进手柄上的油盒里。如果你用的是真空泵，那就要按照我的方法 去做！我在使用真空泵时遇到了一些小麻烦，事实上整个过程只要15分钟就可以搞定了。注意，要仔细观察油盒上的油面标记，不要太低，防止把空气吸入油管 里。这个听起来简单，可是我总是可以看见有的人忘了灌满油盒，使空气又进入了油管，只好从头再来！新的刹车油和老的颜色截然不同，只要你看见有新的油从你 接的橡胶管（接在放油螺丝上）里流出，就说明油彻底换完了。轻轻敲击刹车管，使附着的气泡都跑出来。确定油盒已经灌满了，按上盖子，更换放油螺丝上的橡胶 帽，就完事了！
在你上路试车的之前，最好先捏几下刹车，看看是否有足够的压力。接着慢慢的行驶，测试前后刹车。更保险的是检查刹车片和刹车盘是否位置正确，运转正常。 新的刹车片需要几次磨合使它正常工作，查看出产商的说明，按要求跑合。如果你换了更好的刹车片或是刹车盘，一定要记住！这很可能增强你的刹车力和刹车效 果！不是一定！你要用一些时间去适应新的刹车系统，这样不会伤着你自己，还有你心爱的车子！